Gilletts Jewellery Information

Jewellery Information Service

en selecting the perfect metal for your jewellery, the multitude of options available can seem overwhelming. Each metal boasts unique characteristics and qualities that can significantly influence the overall aesthetic, durability, and maintenance of your jewellery. This is particularly true for engagement rings, wedding bands, and other cherished pieces of jewellery.

Understanding these properties will empower you to make a well-informed decision that aligns with your personal style and preferences. In this comprehensive guide, we will delve deep into some of the most popular and enduring choices in the realm of precious metals. From the timeless allure of yellow gold to the modern sophistication of white gold, we will examine each metal's distinctive features and help you find the perfect match for your jewellery needs. Let's embark on this enlightening journey through the world of precious metals and discover which one shines the brightest for you.

The Metals:

Platinum 950

Platinum 950 (or Platinum) is 95% pure platinum and 5% alloy.

Platinum is stronger and has a higher density than any other precious metal.
Setting diamonds and gemstones is a safe and secure process.
Any scratches (from everyday wear and tear) can be easily polished out of the metal.
Platinum will always retain its original beauty, brightness and whiteness.
Unlike white gold, it requires minimal maintenance because it does not require rhodium plating.
It is hypoallergenic, a perfect ring metal for those with allergies

Palladium

Palladium is 95% pure palladium and 5% alloy.

It is slightly warmer in colour, with a grey or white tone, compared to other white metals.
Palladium is strong, durable, and its whiteness will last forever.
Like Platinum, it will require very little maintenance as there is no need for rhodium plating.
Due to its rich purity, it is hypoallergenic.
A great ring metal option for those with sensitive skin.

Platinum 600

Platinum 600 is 60% pure platinum and 40% alloys.

It is a grey/white colour slightly darker than platinum 950.
Platinum 600 is one of the strongest precious metals with a Vickers International hardness rating of 230.
This means that Platinum 600 is twice as hard as 9ct gold.
Platinum 600 requires less maintenance than any other metal due to its hardness and does not require rhodium plating.
It is hypoallergenic.

Yellow Gold

Yellow Gold is available in 9ct (37.5% pure gold), 14ct (57.5% pure gold), and 18ct (75% pure gold).

Yellow gold is the natural and therefore traditional colour of gold.
It is very good for setting diamonds and gemstones, and wears very well.
Gold has always been the traditional precious metal.

White Gold

White Gold is available in 9ct (37.5% pure gold), 14ct (57.5% pure gold), and 18ct (75% pure gold) and is created by mixing fine yellow gold with other precious white metals, such as nickel, silver, platinum or palladium.

Adding these metals to yellow gold not only gives it its white colour, but it also creates a stronger and more durable alloy perfect for use in jewellery.
Although most people think that white gold is a naturally white metal, it is not. Save
White Gold jewellery is often rhodium-plated.
Rhodium itself is a rare, silver-white precious metal and a member of the platinum family.
A thin layer is applied to the metal, giving it a bright, white & shiny appearance that resists tarnishing.

Rose Gold

Rose Gold is available in 9ct (37.5% pure gold), 14ct (57.5% pure gold), and 18ct (75% pure gold).

Rose gold is created by mixing fine yellow gold with other metals, such as copper, which gives it a pink or red colour.
Rose gold is good for setting diamonds and gemstones.
It has a warm, traditional look, often reminiscent of antique jewellery.

Carbon Fibre

Carbon Fibre is a polymer and is sometimes known as graphite fibre.

It is a robust material that is also very lightweight.
It is 10 times stronger than steel.
It has a natural black appearance, similar to that of wood.
It has become a popular addition to jewellery due to the contrast of colours with precious metals and its durability and hardness.

Titanium

Titanium is a lightweight, dark grey metal.

It is very lightweight, has excellent corrosion resistance and high impact toughness.
Dora uses grade 2 titanium in the use of their rings.
Titanium can be found in meteorites, on the moon, and in some stars.
It is the ninth most abundant element of the Earth's crust.
Titanium is also hypoallergenic.

Silver

Silver is a white metal similar in appearance to white gold..

A soft, lustrous transition ring metal, it exhibits the highest electrical conductivity, thermal conductivity, and reflectivity of any metal

Lets Talk Metals-

PLATINUM 950

Platinum 950 is regarded as one of the finest choices for fine jewellery, consisting of 95% pure platinum and 5% alloy metals to enhance its durability. Its remarkable qualities make it particularly favoured for engagement and wedding rings. Here’s a detailed look into the exceptional characteristics of this exquisite metal:

Exceptional Strength and Density: Platinum is one of the strongest and densest precious metals available. Its substantial weight contributes to a feeling of quality and significance in jewellery. This impressive density ensures that your pieces can withstand the rigours of daily wear, providing longevity and durability.

Secure Gemstone Settings: Platinum’s inherent strength allows for secure settings that keep gemstones firmly in place. This attribute is crucial for precious stones like diamonds, which can be vulnerable to being dislodged. The additional metal surrounding the setting creates a sense of security, especially for intricate designs.

Easy Restoration and Maintenance: While everyday wear may lead to minor scratches on your platinum ring, the good news is that these imperfections are easily resolved. A professional polish is sufficient to remove surface scuffs and restore the piece's original lustre, making it a practical choice for those who wear their jewellery frequently.

Timeless Beauty: Renowned for its natural, brilliant whiteness, platinum stands apart from other white metals. Unlike white gold, which may require periodic rhodium plating to maintain its brightness, platinum’s radiant appearance remains unchanged over time, offering a lasting aesthetic appeal.

Hypoallergenic Properties: Platinum is an excellent choice for individuals with metal allergies or sensitivities. Its hypoallergenic nature means you can wear it comfortably without worrying about skin reactions, making it suitable for everyone.

PALLADIUM

Palladium is another luxurious choice for jewellery, comprising 95% pure palladium and 5% alloy metals. It offers distinct characteristics that set it apart:

Warm Grey/White Colour: Palladium has a unique, warm grey/white hue that distinguishes it from other white metals. This softer tone adds character to jewellery and can enhance the visual appeal of various gemstones set within it.
Strength and Durability: Much like platinum, palladium is robust and built to last. Its natural resistance to tarnish means that it preserves its beauty without the need for an additional coating or plating.
Minimal Maintenance Requirements: One of the appealing aspects of palladium is its low maintenance. Owners can enjoy hassle-free wear without worrying about frequent polishing or restoring its shine, making it an excellent choice for busy lifestyles.
Hypoallergenic Qualities Palladium is also hypoallergenic, ensuring that even those with sensitive skin can wear it comfortably. This quality, combined with its stylish appearance, makes palladium a sought-after option for a wide audience.

PLATINUM 600

Platinum 600 is an alternative alloy that contains 60% pure platinum and 40% alloy. This variant offers unique benefits that may appeal to certain preferences:

Distinctive Grey/White Colour: Platinum 600 has a slightly darker grey/white shade than its 950 counterpart. This unique colour gives pieces made from platinum 600 a distinctive flair, allowing for a richer contrast, especially with coloured gemstones.

Unparalleled Strength: Boasting a remarkable Vickers International hardness rating of 230, platinum 600 is exceptionally strong, even more so than 9-carat gold. This greater hardness minimises wear and tear, making it an enduring choice for those who seek longevity without extensive maintenance.

Reduced Need for Maintenance: Thanks to its hardness, platinum 600 requires less frequent polishing and upkeep compared to softer metals. Owners can enjoy the aesthetics of their jewellery without the constant need for care.
Hypoallergenic: Like its platinum counterparts, platinum 600 is hypoallergenic, making it a comfortable and safe choice for individuals with metal sensitivities.

YELLOW GOLD

Yellow gold is a classic choice in the world of precious metals, comprised of varying levels of purity that cater to different preferences:

Traditional Golden Hue: Yellow gold maintains the natural and traditional color of gold, characterized by its warm, rich tone. This timeless color beautifully complements diamonds and a diverse array of gemstones, enhancing their overall brilliance.

Remarkable Durability: Available in purities such as 9ct (37.5% pure gold), 14ct (57.5% pure gold), and 18ct (75% pure gold), yellow gold is known for its strength and resilience. Its durability ensures that jewelry made from yellow gold retains its beauty and withstands the test of time.

Versatile Style: The classic nature of yellow gold makes it suitable for both everyday wear and special occasions, allowing it to be a versatile addition to any jewelry collection. Whether in the form of engagement rings, necklaces, or bracelets, it adapts seamlessly to various styles.

Symbolic Value: Gold has long been associated with wealth, success, and enduring love, making yellow gold a meaningful choice for significant life events and celebrations.

WHITE GOLD

White gold is an elegant and modern alternative to yellow gold, known for its sophisticated appearance and versatility. It is available in various purities that cater to different preferences for quality and affordability:

Contemporary Alloy Composition: White gold is not a naturally occurring metal but an alloy created by blending fine yellow gold with other precious white metals. Commonly used metals such as nickel, silver, platinum, and palladium contribute to the alloy's striking white colour while enhancing its strength and durability. This combination ensures that white gold pieces stand the test of time, maintaining their shape and structural integrity even after prolonged use.

Brilliant Finish: To achieve a brilliant, reflective finish, white gold jewellery is often plated with rhodium, a rare, silver-white metal from the platinum family. This plating creates a stunning shine that enhances the piece's beauty and adds a layer of protection against tarnishing and scratches. Although rhodium is highly reflective and contributes to the luminous appearance of the jewellery, it can wear off over time, particularly with frequent exposure to water and chemicals. Occasional reapplication by a professional jeweller can help maintain the piece's original brilliance and protection.

Remarkable Durability: The durability of white gold, bolstered by the inclusion of metals like nickel, makes it resistant to everyday wear and tear. This ensures that rings and bracelets retain their beauty and structural integrity, offering the wearer peace of mind, especially for frequently worn pieces.

Versatile Style: The modern aesthetic of white gold allows it to complement a wide variety of gemstones, making it a versatile addition to any jewellery collection. Suitable for both contemporary and classic designs, white gold adapts seamlessly to different styles, from engagement rings to elegant necklaces.

ROSE GOLD

Rose gold, a romantic and warm choice, is cherished for its unique hue and timeless appeal. Available in various purities—9ct (37.5% pure gold), 14ct (57.5% pure gold), and 18ct (75% pure gold)—it caters to diverse preferences for quality and budget.

Charming Pink Hue: This enchanting metal is created by alloying fine yellow gold with copper, resulting in its characteristic pink or reddish hue. The copper content not only contributes to its alluring colour but also enhances the metal's overall strength, making rose gold an ideal choice for intricate and delicate designs without sacrificing durability.

Romantic Appeal: Rose gold has made a significant resurgence in popularity, particularly within vintage and antique-style jewellery. Its warm tone beautifully complements various gemstones and enhances their natural colours, making it a favoured choice for engagement rings and fine jewellery pieces. The combination of tradition and contemporary aesthetic in rose gold designs allows wearers to express their individuality while embracing a classic look.

Versatile Design Adaptability: The captivating colour of rose gold works exceptionally well with both warm and cool-toned gemstones, creating striking contrasts and harmonious pairings. This versatility extends to different jewellery styles, from vintage-inspired designs to modern minimalist pieces, allowing rose gold to fit seamlessly into any collection.

Skin-Friendly Properties: Another advantage of rose gold is its hypoallergenic nature, especially when alloyed with metals like palladium. This makes it a comfortable choice for those with sensitive skin, ensuring wearers can enjoy their jewellery without irritation, particularly with everyday wear pieces such as rings and bracelets.

CARBON FIBRE

Carbon fibre, known for its exceptional strength and contemporary look, has emerged as a popular material in modern jewellery design. This remarkable polymer offers innovative aesthetic possibilities, appealing to those who appreciate a bold and modern style.

Impressive Strength-to-Weight Ratio: Carbon fibre stands out due to its impressive strength-to-weight ratio, being approximately ten times stronger than steel while remaining lightweight. This makes it an excellent choice for designs that require both durability and comfort, perfect for everyday wear and active lifestyles.

Contemporary Aesthetic: Featuring a natural black or dark grey appearance, carbon fibre provides a striking contrast to traditional precious metals such as gold or silver. Its sleek, modern look allows for unique and artistic jewellery designs that appeal to fashion-forward individuals seeking something out of the ordinary. This versatility makes carbon fibre an exciting choice for various types of jewellery, from edgy bracelets to cutting-edge earrings.

Durability and Resistance: Carbon fibre is not only visually appealing but also incredibly durable and resistant to environmental factors, including moisture, heat, and chemicals. This property ensures that carbon fibre jewellery maintains its beauty over time, making it a reliable choice for those who appreciate both style and substance.

Lightweight Comfort: The lightweight nature of carbon fibre allows for comfortable wear over extended periods, making it ideal for various applications, including rings, necklaces, and bracelets. Its ease of wear, combined with its modern aesthetic, makes carbon fibre jewellery a popular choice for those seeking unique pieces without compromising comfort.

TITANIUM

Titanium is a lightweight, dark grey metal celebrated for its impressive strength and corrosion resistance, making it a standout choice in the world of jewellery.

Modern Look and Durability: Frequently chosen for its sleek modern aesthetic, titanium is not only visually striking but also incredibly durable. Its unique properties are highlighted by the fact that it can be sourced from extraterrestrial materials, such as meteorites and even lunar rocks. This cosmic connection adds an intriguing layer to titanium's allure, appealing to those who appreciate both science and style.

Hypoallergenic Properties: Titanium is the ninth most abundant element in the Earth's crust and is renowned for its hypoallergenic properties. This makes it a safe option for individuals with sensitive skin or allergies to other metals. Its blend of strength and lightweight feel, along with resistance to wear and tarnishing, makes titanium a go-to choice for both fashion and functional jewellery. Whether crafted into rings, bracelets, or necklaces, titanium offers enduring beauty without compromise.

Versatility in Design: The versatility of titanium extends to its use in various jewellery styles, from classic to avant-garde. Its ability to be anodised allows for a broad spectrum of colours, providing endless possibilities in design. This adaptability pairs beautifully with gemstones, enhancing their colour through striking contrasts and a modern aesthetic.

Longevity and Maintenance: One of the standout features of titanium is its outstanding longevity. Unlike softer metals that may scratch or tarnish over time, titanium holds up exceptionally well, requiring minimal maintenance. This resilience ensures that titanium jewellery remains a cherished part of any collection for years to come, making it an ideal investment for those who appreciate timeless elegance.

SILVER

Silver is a lustrous and versatile white metal often compared to white gold due to its similar appearance, though it boasts its own unique charm.

Brilliant Shine: Known for its brilliant shine and reflective qualities, silver is a soft metal that provides a beautiful lustre perfect for fine jewellery. Renowned for its highest electrical conductivity, thermal conductivity, and reflectivity among metals, silver’s qualities extend beyond aesthetics, making it a practical choice for a variety of applications.

Affordability and Elegance: Its aesthetic appeal, combined with affordability, solidifies silver’s place as a beloved choice in the jewellery industry. While it may require occasional polishing to maintain its radiant shine, the ease of care adds to its desirability. Silver's malleability enables artisans to craft intricate and detailed designs, resulting in a stunning array of styles that range from classic to contemporary, appealing to a wide range of tastes.

Versatile Design Options: The adaptability of silver is evident in its seamless integration into numerous jewellery types, including rings, earrings, necklaces, and bracelets. Its neutral hue complements a variety of gemstones and materials, allowing for innovative designs that cater to both traditional tastes and modern sensibilities.

Caring for Silver Jewellery: Although silver is a durable metal, it is advisable to store your silver jewellery in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight, to prevent tarnishing. Regular cleaning and polishing not only enhance its beauty but also ensure that silver pieces remain vibrant and striking for years to come, making it a lasting favourite in any jewellery collection.

In summary, selecting the ideal metal for your jewellery involves understanding the distinct characteristics and qualities each option offers. Platinum 950 stands out for its exceptional strength, density, and low maintenance requirements, making it a popular choice for engagement and wedding rings. Palladium offers a durable, hypoallergenic alternative with a warm hue, while Platinum 600 combines strength with a slightly darker appearance. Traditional yellow gold and its variations, white gold and rose gold, each have their unique aesthetic appeal and suitability for gemstone settings. Modern materials, such as carbon fibre and titanium, provide innovative alternatives, offering lightweight and durable options. Ultimately, the right choice will align with your personal style, preferences, and practical needs, ensuring that your jewellery remains beautiful and cherished for years to come.

Titanium Rings: Unveiling the Essentials

Experience the world of titanium rings through our comprehensive guide. From understanding titanium's unique properties to exploring design options, we've compiled all the answers you seek. Dive into the realm of this exceptional metal for both dress and wedding rings, where strength meets elegance.

Titanium: A Unique Metal Titanium, a natural element with a silver-greyish-white hue, reigns as the world's hardest natural metal. It boasts incredible strength, outshining gold, silver, and platinum, yet remains lightweight. This hypoallergenic metal doesn't react with your skin, ensuring a comfortable wear.

Why Opt for Titanium? Embrace titanium's distinctive traits that make it an exceptional choice for jewelry. Beyond its strength and scratch-resistance, titanium offers a spectrum of captivating colors that other metals can't replicate. Our colored titanium rings, including blue, purple, and more, showcase its versatility and allure.

Purity in Grade Our commitment to quality extends to the titanium we use, a commercial-grade titanium with 99.9% purity. Its hypoallergenic and allergy-free nature ensures comfort and safety.

Hypoallergenic Assurance Pure titanium is hypoallergenic, causing no skin irritation or discoloration. Unlike other metals, it remains unaffected by sunlight or saltwater, making it an ideal choice for those with sensitive skin.

Colorful Transformations The mesmerizing colors of our titanium rings aren't mere coatings; they result from oxidation. This unique process creates hues that won't fade or chip. While titanium is scratch-resistant, scratches may occur over time, revealing the natural color beneath.

Exploring Colors Our titanium rings offer a captivating array of colors, from vibrant blue to black rainbow. This transition between colors during oxidation adds to the charm of each ring's uniqueness.

Engraving Your Story Customize your titanium ring with a personal touch. Engraving options are available for a modest fee, adding sentimental value to your cherished piece.

Resizing and Beyond Titanium rings can't be resized due to their exceptional strength. Our suggestion? Double-check your finger size with a local jeweler before ordering.

Combining Elegance: Gold and Titanium Discover the allure of combined titanium and gold rings, available in white or yellow gold. This fusion yields distinctive styles with edges or inlay stripes.

Width Variety Our titanium-only styles offer widths ranging from 3mm to 10mm, allowing you to select the perfect fit for your taste.

Suitable for All Our rings cater to both men and ladies, offering a versatile range of widths from 3mm to 10mm.

Elegant Satin Finish Opt for elegance with satin-finished titanium rings. Available in light, medium, and heavy textures, satin finish not only enhances aesthetics but also offers protection against wear.

Titanium as Wedding Bands Embrace titanium rings as exquisite wedding bands. Choose satin finishes for added protection, ensuring your rings look splendid for years to come.

Easy Care Cleaning your titanium ring is effortless. Use a soft cloth and warm soapy water, avoiding harsh chemicals. For polished rings, consider an occasional polish by a local jeweler.

Intriguing Designs While titanium's unique properties limit design flexibility, our website displays an array of captivating options for your consideration.

Longevity of Color Enjoy your colored titanium ring, understanding that while it's scratch-resistant, colors may wear over time. Re-oxidation services are available to restore its vibrant charm.

Explore the world of titanium rings with our guide, unveiling the remarkable properties and possibilities of this exceptional metal.

Diamonds are available in varying colours, sizes and qualities. They naturally occur in colours ranging from very clear fine whites to pinks, bright yellows, greens and browns. The majority of diamonds used in jewellery today are white diamonds.

The value of a white diamond is determined by what are commonly referred to as the 4Cs. The 4Cs are the Diamond's Cut, Colour, Clarity and Carat. Each of the 4Cs is important, and the most valuable Diamonds are those that possess the best of all four measurements.

Clarity

Clarity is the term used to describe the size and number of inclusions in a diamond. Almost all diamonds contain minute traces of non-crystallised carbon, the element from which they were born. These inclusions are nature's fingerprint, making every diamond unique. Most are not discernible to the naked eye and require magnification to become apparent.

Large inclusions interfere with the dispersion of light, thereby reducing the diamond's brilliance. The larger or more numerous the inclusions, the less valuable the diamond. The fewer the inclusions, the rarer the stone. Each diamond will have its unique inclusions in various positions within the diamond. VVs, Vs, and Si inclusions are not visible to the naked eye; they are only visible through magnification.

h3>Under a Microscope

VVs	Vs	Si	P
Very, very slight inclusions	Very slight inclusions	Slight inclusions	Inclusions

With the naked eye


VVs, Vs, Si	P

Colour

While many diamonds appear colourless, or white, they may have subtle yellow or brown tones that can be detected when comparing diamonds side by side. Diamonds were formed under intense heat and pressure, and traces of other elements may have been incorporated into their atomic structure, accounting for the variances in colour.

Diamond colour grades start at D and continue through the alphabet. Truly colourless stones, graded D, are extremely rare and very valuable. The closer a diamond is to being colourless, the rarer and more valuable it is.

The colour of a diamond is graded with the diamond upside down before it is set in a mounting. The first three colours D, E, F are often called collection colour. The subtle changes in collection colour are so minute that it is difficult to identify them in the smaller sizes.

Although the presence of colour makes a diamond less rare and valuable, some diamonds come out of the ground in vivid "fancy" colours - well-defined reds, blues, pinks, greens, and bright yellows. These are highly prized and extremely rare.

Carat

The weight of a diamond is measured in carats. One carat is divided into 100 "points" so that a diamond of 25 points is described as a quarter of a carat or 0.25 carats.

The larger the diamond (and therefore the rarer it is), the more expensive it will be per carat. For example, a 1ct diamond costs significantly more than two 1/2ct diamonds, and one 30-point diamond costs substantially more than 30 one-point diamonds.

The Carat measurement of a diamond is actually a measurement of the Diamond's weight rather than its size or diameter. This is important to remember, as depending on the proportions of the Cut of the diamond, some diamonds may appear to have a larger top surface area ("table") than an ideal cut diamond, but they may be of the same carat weight. Diamonds are sometimes cut in shallow proportions (see below) to make a diamond appear larger, but this sacrifices the brilliance and life of the diamond, making it less valuable. See the information about Cut below for further details.

Do not confuse carat with karat. Carat refers to stone weight, while karat refers to the fineness of gold.

Cut

While nature determines a diamond's colour, clarity, and carat weight, the hand of a master craftsman is needed to release its fire and beauty. The cut gives each diamond its unique sparkle and brilliance by allowing the maximum amount of light to enter and reflect back out of the diamond.

Diamonds may be cut in different shapes, with the most common shapes being round (brilliant cut) and what are referred to as fancy cut diamonds, including marquise, oval, pear shape, baguette and princess (square)cuts.


Brilliant Cut	Oval	Pear	Marquise

Ideal proportions

When a diamond is cut to ideal proportions, light is reflected from one facet to another and then dispersed through the top of the stone. The light refracted externally will amplify and disperse the refracted light from within to provide a myriad of colours and an even concentration of light, brilliance and lustre. A skilful Diamond Cutter can unlock an incomparable natural beauty by accurately arranging each facet to maximise the amount of light returned to the eye of the observer.

Too deep

If a diamond is cut too deeply, some light escapes through the opposite side of the pavilion.

Too shallow

If the cut is too shallow, light escapes through the pavilion before it can be reflected.

Top^

So why aren't all Diamonds cut to ideal proportions?

Ideal proportion cut

Largest cut

When a diamond cutter is given a diamond crystal to cut into a finished diamond, they have a choice to make: Will they cut the largest diamond that they can from the rough crystal, or will they cut the brightest and most brilliant diamond that they can?

If the cutter goes for the largest cut diamond they will sacrifice some brilliance. If they go for the most brilliant, they will sacrifice some size.

The more brilliant diamond is smaller, but it is valuable because of its exceptional brilliance. The larger diamond is valuable because it is large, but is worth less per carat because it is not so brilliant.

At Gillett's, we strongly recommend the brighter Ideal Cut because of its brilliance —a brilliance that will last forever.

To find the best Diamond that fits within your price range, it essentially comes down to a compromise between the 4Cs and your consideration of which factors are most important to you. You may choose a larger, lower colour diamond or prefer a smaller, high colour, cut and clarity diamond.

You may for example choose a relatively large 75 point (3/4 carat) diamond in a high colour F collection colour and a slightly lower Si1 clarity. This means that you have a large diamond with a very good colour and which to the naked eye does not have any inclusions. On the other hand, having a diamond that has as few inclusions as possible may be important to you (even if you need a microscope to see the inclusions), in that case you may choose a high VVs or Vs clarity, a good colour G and a smaller diamond carat weight.

Once you know how diamond grading works, it's just a matter for you to decide what is best for you.

9ct Gold vs 18ct Gold

One of the most common questions we receive from couples planning their custom engagement or wedding rings is "What is the difference between 9ct and 18ct gold?" This guide will walk you through the main characteristics that set them apart.

You may be wondering what exactly ‘ct’ or sometimes seen as ‘K’, refers to. The ‘carat’ of a metal denotes the percentage of pure gold in the alloy, with 9ct being 37.5% and 18ct 75% pure gold.

Gold in its purest form is too soft to be used in fine jewellery, so it is commonly mixed with other metals to increase its strength and durability, as well as to create unique colours like Rose Gold and White Gold

Metal Alloys

When it comes to the metal alloys found in 9ct and 18ct gold, the differences primarily lie in their composition.

Gold purity is measured in carats (ct), with 24ct being pure gold. 9ct and 18ct gold are gold alloys, meaning they are mixed with other metals to enhance strength, durability, and alter color.

9ct Gold (37.5% Pure Gold)

Yellow Gold: 37.5% gold, mixed with copper and silver in roughly equal proportions to maintain a warm yellow tone.
Rose Gold: 37.5% gold, with a higher percentage of copper and a smaller amount of silver, giving it a reddish-pink hue.
White Gold: 37.5% gold, alloyed with palladium, nickel, or zinc to create a silvery-white appearance, often plated with rhodium for enhanced whiteness.

18ct Gold (75% Pure Gold)

Yellow Gold: 75% gold, blended with 25% copper and silver to achieve a rich, classic yellow color.
Rose Gold: 75% gold, with a higher ratio of copper to silver, resulting in a deeper rose or pink tone.
White Gold: 75% gold, mixed with palladium, nickel, or other white metals, and typically rhodium-plated for a bright, reflective finish.

The color intensity and durability of these alloys depend on the specific metal mix, with 18ct gold being more vibrant due to its higher gold content, while 9ct gold is more durable because of the larger proportion of other metals.

Metal Colours

The colour variations in gold metals occur due to the specific alloys used in the mixture. When pure gold is combined with other metals, it not only strengthens the material but also affects its hue. For example, adding copper creates a warm, pinkish tone known as Rose Gold, while mixing gold with palladium or nickel results in the cooler, silvery finish of White Gold. Each metal contributes its unique traits, affecting both the appearance and properties of the final product, allowing for a range of beautiful colours to suit individual preferences.

Durability and Tarnish

9ct gold consists of a higher proportion of non-precious metals, with 62.5% compared to 18ct gold, which contains 75% pure gold. Many people mistakenly think that this makes 9ct gold more durable for everyday use, but that's incorrect. The extra metals in 9ct gold actually lower its density, causing it to wear down faster. On the other hand, 18ct gold not only boasts greater durability and resistance to wear but is also less prone to tarnishing due to its significantly higher gold content. This makes 18ct gold a superior choice for daily wear.

9ct Gold

Not as dense and tend to wear over time.

18ct gold ✅

Better withstands impacts and endures through daily use, and is less prone to tarnish

9ct vs 18ct Summary

When comparing 18ct gold and 9ct gold, 18ct is definitely worth considering due to its higher price, which is justified by its greater gold content, resulting in superior durability and performance. While 9ct can be a good choice for occasional jewellery items, such as dress rings and earrings, 18ct is better suited for everyday pieces, like engagement and wedding rings.

It’s important to differentiate between 18ct white gold and platinum. Platinum is a denser, nearly pure white metal (95%) known for its long-lasting durability, making it ideal for intricate engagement ring settings. Unlike white gold, platinum doesn’t require rhodium plating as it maintains its natural colour. However, platinum typically comes at a higher price than 18ct gold.

Precious Metals Guide